It had never occurred to Claire Fitts, the owner of Butterfly Bakery, to use fresh pumpkin in baked goods when canned was so widely used, but a few years ago a friend of hers received a pumpkin from her CSA.

This is an old favorite of Lee Duberman’s, which she has made for every restaurant that she has owned. It is rich, earthy, and inexpensive to make. The dish is best made with chicken thighs, preferably from high-quality local chickens.

Serve this hearty soup with crusty bread and a tossed green salad.